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Shona Johnstone: the tartan lady

The Wānaka App

02 July 2018, 1:27 AM

Shona Johnstone: the tartan lady

Shona and Hilary Johnstone. PHOTO: Daniel Allen 

DIANA COCKS 

The local A&P Show produces some remarkable sights but coming across woollen tartan bonnets, scarves, bonny wee bowties, rugs and cushions - the creations of one extraordinary 92-year-old weaver and artist Shona Johnstone - was unexpected.

Ably representing her mum at the show was her daughter Hilary Johnstone. She admitted her first trades display at the show was "overwhelming” but then the product she was exhibiting is not run-of-the-mill (pun intended). Rather it’s imbued with history, creativity and a life-long love affair with Otago.

Many who reside in the South can trace their heritage to their Scots ancestors so it’s not surprising that someone should produce a unique tartan which is synonymous with the Southern Lakes district.

Shona Johnstone, now aged 92, has a photo of herself, then aged two-years-old, in a boat with her mother on Lake Wanaka. Her family had a crib here and she has many fond memories of days spent outdoors.  

Shona (an inaugural member of Otago Spinners and Weavers Guild), now based permanently in Wanaka, was inspired by her environment to do something creative which reflected her love of the snow-capped mountains, the tussocks and the soft blue waters of the lake.

She designed and made a tartan.

"She did that for our family and gave us all a throw for Christmas,” Hilary said. But when the family got such positive feedback about the tartan, Shona decided to do more with it.

A chance encounter with Bonnie Dewhurst, who’s married to a local upholsterer, led to Bonnie encouraging Shona to officially register her tartan in Scotland. All officially recognised tartans must be registered by The Scottish Register of Tartans - a repository of all tartans, with an online database maintained by the National Records of Scotland.

The thread count (described as the DNA of each tartan), colour, an authorised name for the tartan, all had to create "a unique package” appropriate for registration.

Hilary said Bonnie discovered that the tartan must be approved by the clan chief so the then QLDC mayor, Vanessa van Uden, was briefed on the concept and official name. "She gave us her blessing to put the name forward to be registered,” Hilary said. With approval from Scotland, the Southern Lakes tartan was born.

The name "is really a gift to the people of the region,” she said. "Most tartans reflect family history but this is an identity for everybody; it’s a legacy forever now.”

Hilary said many locals at the show expressed their affinity to the tartan. "It takes the colours of our environment and puts them into their homes, so everyone feels comfortable with it.”


Hilary displays the Southern Lakes tartan at the Upper Clutha A&P Show last weekend. PHOTO: Wanaka App

Most of the tartan items are individually crafted by Stansborough, a weaving mill in Petone, Wellington, known for its award winning fabric design for the Lord of the Rings trilogy and its quality, sustainable textiles.

"We went to Petone because we loved that they still used their old 1890s loom, which has a very similar look to Mum’s weaving,” Hilary said.

The company’s skilled artisans use traditional methods, employing worsted looms which hark back to the industrial revolution of the late 19th century - the only looms of their kind in the world still in commercial use. Hilary said Stansborough breeds a rare sheep flock, the Stansborough Grey, and weaves its own wool into small product runs of fabric.

The rugs and upholstery fabrics are produced by Interweave in Auckland, one of the few large commercial weavers left in New Zealand. But when it came to the kilts, Shona was forced to look offshore.

"Mum’s ultimate dream was to see kilts but we could not find anyone in New Zealand capable of producing the specialised kilt fabric,” Hilary said. "So we went to the House of Edgar in Perth, Scotland, for a 100 percent woollen, traditional weave. And a Mosgiel based company, Just Kilts, hand-stitches the kilts to order.”

During the show, three of the kilts were on display for the first time, worn by members of the Queenstown and Southern Lakes Highland Pipe band. Eventually enough kilts will be made to outfit the entire band.

"I am the most incredibly proud daughter,” Hilary said. "What woman at 92 is starting a business? What a role model for all of us. We get to 60 and we think we should start to slow down. She got to 85 and thought she’d better speed up.”

"Mum’s the spearhead of all of it. She came up with the name, the colours, the product designs. We will discuss ideas but all the final decisions are hers.”

"She and I have the best time. I’m passionate about what we’re doing but it’s also a really cool thing to be able to hang out with my mum.”